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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.